Frequent visitors to Thailand will already be familiar with Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai. But there is more to North Thailand than these two well-known destinations. If you’re seeking to explore somewhere new on your next visit, head to Nan. You’ll find spectacular mountain scenery, beautiful temples, tasty local food and a slower pace of life.
Located adjacent to the border with Laos, Nan has historically been seen as a remote destination that is difficult to reach. However, that is no longer the case. With a regional airport connecting Nan with Bangkok and comfortable buses connecting Nan with Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai, this delightful province makes for a great addition to a northern Thailand itinerary.
Explore Nan town
The provincial capital is an easygoing town where many of the main attractions are within walking or cycling distance of one another. Although Nan is very much a modern Thai town, its historic centre retains plenty of character and offers clues to the days when the area was governed by local rulers.
(Photo: ploypemuk / Shutterstock)
Temples, traditional wooden buildings and small cafes make the old town an enjoyable place to wander without any particular agenda. On weekends, the area close to Wat Phumin comes alive in the evening with a walking street market. Browse the stalls for handicrafts and souvenirs or follow the locals and make the most of the excellent choice of northern Thai food.
Admire the murals at Wat Phumin
No first-time visit to Nan would be complete without seeing Wat Phumin. The temple dates back to the 16th century and is unusual for its cruciform design, with four entrances leading towards four seated Buddha images positioned back-to-back in the centre.
(Photo: Roy Cavanagh)
As impressive as the architecture is, Wat Phumin is best known for its 19th-century murals. The paintings depict Buddhist stories alongside fascinating scenes of everyday life in Nan. Look out for the most famous image of all, showing a tattooed man leaning towards a woman and whispering into her ear. Known as the ‘Whisper of Love’, the endearing image has become an unofficial symbol of Nan and can be spotted on souvenirs and artwork throughout the province.
Learn more about Nan’s history
Directly opposite Wat Phumin, Nan National Museum is another worthwhile stop. Housed in the former residence of Nan’s rulers, the museum provides an introduction to the history and culture of the province, with displays covering everything from local textiles and religious art to the different ethnic groups that have shaped the region.
(Photo: Roy Cavanagh)
Allow some time to explore the surrounding grounds too. The photogenic tunnel formed by intertwined frangipani trees has become an attraction in its own right.
Nan town is home to numerous other temples, including Wat Phra That Chang Kham and the ornate white exterior of Wat Ming Mueang. Across the Nan River, Wat Phra That Chae Haeng is one of the province’s most important places of worship and is particularly revered by people born in the Year of the Rabbit.
Take in the views from Wat Phra That Khao Noi
For one of the best views over Nan, make your way to Wat Phra That Khao Noi on the western outskirts of town. The temple occupies an elevated position overlooking the valley, with a large golden standing Buddha facing towards Nan.
(Photo: Roy Cavanagh)
If you’re feeling energetic, climb the naga-flanked staircase from the bottom of the hill. Alternatively, there is road access closer to the summit. Whichever way you arrive, the sweeping views provide a reminder of just how dramatically the mountains surround Nan. Early morning and late afternoon are especially atmospheric times to visit.
Discover Nan’s artistic side
Nan has developed a thriving arts scene, and one of the best places to discover it is the Nan Riverside Art Gallery. Located north of the provincial capital in a tranquil setting beside the Nan River, the gallery was founded by renowned Nan-born artist Winai Prabripoo.
The spacious galleries showcase contemporary Thai art, with works from local and nationally recognised artists. Even if you aren’t normally an art-gallery enthusiast, the peaceful location and attractive grounds make this an enjoyable stop on the journey north towards Pua.
Enjoy the rural charm of Pua
Continue north from Nan town and the landscape becomes increasingly rural. Surrounded by mountains and rice fields, the small town of Pua makes an excellent base for exploring this part of the province.
The scenery is particularly photogenic during the green season when the rice paddies add splashes of vivid green to the landscape. There is also a strong Tai Lue influence in the area, reflected in local temples, food and traditional textiles.
Visit Wat Phuket for gorgeous views across the rice fields towards the mountains. Nearby villages are renowned for their weaving traditions and offer opportunities to shop for locally made textiles.
Explore Doi Phu Kha National Park
From Pua, the road climbs into Doi Phu Kha National Park, one of the natural highlights of Nan. Covering a vast mountainous area, the park is home to forest trails, viewpoints, waterfalls and a wide variety of plant life.
The journey through the national park is as memorable as the destination. Roads twist through densely forested mountains with viewpoints providing plenty of excuses to stop along the way.
Temperatures can be surprisingly cool in the mountains during the winter months, especially early in the morning and after sunset, so pack something warmer if you’re visiting between November and February.
Follow the mountain road to Bo Kluea
The road between Pua and Bo Kluea is one of the most spectacular journeys in northern Thailand. The famous curves of Route 1256 take you through Doi Phu Kha National Park before descending towards the small district of Bo Kluea.
The name Bo Kluea translates as ‘salt well’, a reference to the unusual mountain salt deposits found here. For generations, local people have drawn brine from underground wells and boiled it over wood fires to produce salt.
Visitors can see the traditional process and buy locally produced salt and other products. It’s a fascinating reminder that Nan’s mountains haven’t just shaped the landscape; they’ve also influenced the lives and livelihoods of the communities living here.
Slow down in Sapan
A short journey north of Bo Kluea brings you to Sapan, a small mountain village that has become increasingly popular with Thai travellers.
With rice fields, streams and forested hills forming the backdrop, Sapan is the type of place where doing very little is part of the attraction. Small cafes and homestays overlook the surrounding countryside, while nearby Sapan Waterfall provides another reason to linger.
Stay overnight and enjoy the village once the daytime visitors have departed. During the rainy and early cool seasons, mist drifting between the mountains adds another layer of beauty to the landscape.
Stargaze at Doi Samer Dao
Another of Nan’s outstanding natural attractions lies south of the provincial capital in Si Nan National Park. Doi Samer Dao is renowned for its panoramic mountain views and is especially popular for camping.
Arrive before sunset and watch the light fade over the mountains before turning your attention to the night sky. With relatively little light pollution, Doi Samer Dao has earned a reputation as one of Thailand’s most memorable locations for stargazing.
Wake early the following morning, and you may be rewarded with mist filling the valleys below as the sun rises over the surrounding peaks.
When is the best time to visit Nan?
Nan can be visited throughout the year, with each season offering something different. The cool season from November to February brings comfortable daytime temperatures and cooler evenings, particularly in the mountains. It’s also an excellent time for camping and exploring the national parks.
The rainy or green season has its own appeal. From around July onwards, rice fields and mountains take on vibrant shades of green and waterfalls are replenished by the seasonal rains. Downpours can be heavy, but they are often relatively short-lived.
March and April are normally the hottest months, and air quality in northern Thailand can also be affected by seasonal agricultural burning and forest fires.
Getting to Nan
Nan is approximately 670 kilometres (415 miles) north of Bangkok. Flying is the quickest option, with direct domestic flights connecting Bangkok with Nan Nakhon Airport. The airport is conveniently located just a few kilometres from the centre of town.
Long-distance buses also connect Nan with Bangkok and other northern destinations.
Travelling by bus from Chiang Mai takes around six hours, but if you stopover in neighbouring Phrae for a couple of days, it’s a great way to break up the journey and allows you the chance to visit another of the north’s less well-known destinations. If travelling from Chiang Rai, the journey to Nan is approximately four hours. From either Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai, the reliable Green Bus company offers regular services to and from Nan.
Once outside Nan town, having your own transport or arranging a car and driver gives you much more flexibility for exploring Pua, Doi Phu Kha, Bo Kluea and Sapan.
Where to stay in Nan
For a first visit, spending at least two nights in Nan town allows plenty of time to explore the temples, museums, markets and restaurants without rushing.
If your itinerary allows, venture further north and add overnight stays in Pua, Bo Kluea or Sapan. Accommodation ranges from simple homestays to stylish small resorts surrounded by rice fields and mountains.
This combination of town and countryside is the best way to appreciate Nan. Allow four or five days if you can, although it’s easy to spend a week exploring the province at a leisurely pace.
Discover a different side of northern Thailand
Nan doesn’t have the visitor numbers or international profile of Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai, and that’s an important part of its appeal. This is somewhere to slow down, enjoy the journey and experience a part of northern Thailand where local traditions remain an integral part of everyday life.
Come for the exquisite temples and historic murals of Nan town, then stay for the rice fields, mountain roads and rural communities of Pua, Bo Kluea and Sapan. Add welcoming locals and gorgeous scenery into the mix, and it’s easy to understand why Nan leaves such a lasting impression.
